![]() I use a lot of camera as a film director, from RED to BlackMagic Canon C200 Sony 7sII, 7III, Panasonic Gh5 and now the Fujifilm XT3. Video is much different than photo but once you get the basics down of what your limitations are and how to minimize them it's smooth sailing. Keep asking questions and keep practicing. ![]() You didn't see these same issues with videos you saw online because no one who would proudly post example footage online and shoot them in the standard profile because of all the reasons detailed above. So I'm closing, the problem isn't with your cameras, just how you were capturing your footage. Lastly I set sharpness to -2 or -3 for the same reason as NR, it's just better set in post. If you actually find once you're in front of the computer that you need some NR than anything you use for post production NR will be a mile better than your camera can do and you can fine tune it. Why set NR to -3 if we're trying to get a picture with as little noise as possible? Easy, the camera itself does a garbage job of reducing noise and just makes the picture softer. I have my highlights and shadows set to be just a little flatter than stock eterna, color set to 0 or +1 depending on what I'm doing and NR set to -3. Play with these and find what fits best for you. There are also adjustments you can make to the profile in the menus to change highlights, shadows, noise reduction, sharpness and color. It's a pretty flat profile but not as flat as flog so I could get more information on my 0-10 exposure scale but didn't have to take so much time grading. This particular profile is actually what made me switch to Fuji. There's an option B as well though and one that I think will be a better fit for you if you don't want to spend a ton of time in post. It requires somewhere between a medium to high amount of post production grading to get that 3-7 clicks of information to the 0-10 clicks that actually existed in that scene. Shooting at log doesnt come without a cost though. It doesn't lose that information though, infact it does just the opposite, it puts it into a range of exposure that the sensor can retain. People shoot with flat picture profiles such as flog because it takes the 0-10 and squeezes most that information into 3-7 which makes the brights less bright and dark less dark as the sensor exposes them. ![]() This is where things like log come into play. All hope is not lost though as there's a way we can only lose 2 notches instead of 4. In the standard profile that you used for your test you were using a very contrasty starting point with the 0-10 scale lining up with what I'm describing above and we now know that we're going to lose about four notches of information depending on how we expose. Now that we're thinking about exposure and expected results with reasonable expectations let's talk about how to maximize what we can get. Lastly if you expose for the shadows 0-6 look good but you've lost all the information in your whites and the highlights will have artifacts. If we expose for the highlights 4-10 will look good but 0-3 is going to have no information in the blacks and artifacts in the shadows. To reference our exposure range, if we exposed for 5, most the image will look good but we're going to lose information or get noise in 0-1 and 9-10. Let's also keep in mind that with regards to exposure you are either choosing to expose for the highlights, the shadows or somewhere in between. For the sake of argument lets think about exposure as 0-10, 0 is pure black and 10 is pure white and shadows are 2-3 and highlights are 7-8. The trick is to make the most of that information. When you're working with video you're essentially working with a JPEG but with even less information. You're dealing with less information and now less flexibility to push the sliders resulting in highlights that may not look as good or may start to get some strange coloring effects and your shadows will start to exibit noise in the shadows when you pull them up. Now let's do that same scenario with a JPEG. Because it's raw the information the sensor collected would be cleaner so the noise in the shadows wouldn't be as pronounced. If this was a raw photograph you could expose it a little brighter, just before blowing out the highlights and then in post pull up the shadows and pull down the highlights. In a scene like this that contains both shadow areas and bright areas. So couple things to consider and I'm not sure how much experience you have with video so I'll try to strike a balance between over simplified and over complicated.
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